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1. Draw a birds eye drawing of your mobile home and decks.

2. Measure the HEIGHT at each corner. Add all the measurements together and divide by number of corners. This will give you the average height which you can use to figure out your panels.

3. Measure the length of the perimeter. Divide the perimeter by 11 to get the number of trim kits you need. 

4. When you are ready to order, let us know how of each you will need.

Outside Corners #_____

Panels #_____

Trim Kit Hardware #_____

Windguard #_____

Tool Loaner #_____




  • Hammer

  • Plumb Bob

  • Measuring Tape

  • Tin Snips

  • Chalk Line

  • Snap Lock Tool

*If an accessory Trim Pak is not purchased, you will need 100 7" gutter-type spikes and 250 1/2" coated roofing-type nails or screws.


  • For optimal performance, Variform does not recommend the installation of vinyl skirting panels exceeding 48"in height.

  • To maintain beauty, simply clean with soap and water.

  • Do not paint your skirting. This is not necessary and it will void your warranty.

  • To keep grass and vegetation growth away from the skirting, place 6-8 inches of metal roof flashing on the ground around the perimeter and center the bottom rail down the middle. 

  • Do not allow line trimmers to contact your skirting, as this will result in damage.


  1. Determine a place for mounting. Place bottom edge of back rail just below bottom edge of the home. This location must offer solid support for attaching and win load pressure for panels and rails.

  2. Keep the back rail straight and level. Snap a chalk line around the home to guide the top edge of the back rail.

  3. Correct screwing or nailing method for back rail: Start on the back side of the home. Position screws or nails in the center of the slot. Screw/nail to allow for a clearance of 1/16” from the back rail surface. Note: avoid tightly screwing or nailing back rail. A 1/16” clearance allows for normal expansion and contraction with temperature change. Place a screw or nail in every other slot. 

  4. Provide a 1/2” gap between each back rail section for normal thermal expansion.



  1. Ground preparation. Prepare the ground so that it is smooth, free of loose clumps, clods or protruding obstacles. Guard against uneven settling of newly excavated ground by mounting the bottom rail on treated (2”x2”) lumber.

  2. Mark the ground location directly below the outside, bottom edge of the home. use a level or plumb bob to determine this location at each corner.

  3. Snap a chalk line or stretch a nylon string between each corner to guide the bottom rail.

  4. Position the bottom rail with the back left toward the inside of the chalk line perimeter.

  5. Drive ground spikes every 19 inches. Two sets of holes are provided in the bottom rail. They are located inside the channel, and on the back leg. Ground spikes may be driven in either hole at intervals of 19 inches.

  6. Installation on concrete. Use a 3/4” masonry nail. You Amy also drill a hole for a 3/16” molly screw and plastic sleeve. (Nail and screw materials are available at most hardware stores.)


  1. Beginning 24” away from the lowers corner of the home, measure from the ground up to 1-1/2” above the bottom edge of the back rail. (If the temperature is below 40 degree Fahrenheit, with frozen ground, measure to 3” above the back rail edge.)

  2. Measurements on sloping ground should be taken every 16” (width of panel.)

  3. Cut the bottom of each panel to angle with the ground. Each cut panel section should align 90* to the bottom edge of the home. Use aviation snips or a power saw (with a fine toothed saw blade turned backwards) for cutting.

  4. Punch lock tabs every 4” along the top and bottom edge of cut panel sections (or outside portion of each panel face for 13” VariBest.) A Malco (SL-8) Snap Lock Punch tool is recommended. Consult your skirting supplier for or staining this tool. Tabs are to be positioned outward to catch on the hooked edge of the rails.

  5. Interlock panels and insert into the bottom rail. begin with the first panel inserted into the bottom rail. Lock tabs should snap past the hooked edge of the bottom rail. Insert next panel section into the interlock hooks along the vertical edge of the panels. Seat each panel securely into the bottom rail. Repeat interlocking panels, forming about a 12-foot section. Resume panel cut and interlock method. 


  1. Start snapping one end of the front top rail into the back top rail, creating the interlock. Push the front top rail upward, its entire length until the front top rail is completely interlocked with the back rail.

  2. Overlap 1” each top rail section.


  1. Top back rail - Make a 1” vertical slit from the top. Top interlock hook should be completely cut through. Notch 45” on bottom curved leg.

  2. Bottom rail - Notch the back portion with snips, as illustrated. Bend around a corner and attach to the ground.

  3. Panels - Cut panel to proper height. Determine point of corner bedl bend over a table edge, forming a uniform angle. 

  4. Top front rail - Notch at both the top and bottom hooks of the front rail, as illustrated. Bend around the corner and fit into the interlock with the top back rail. Refer to the “Interlock Front Rail with Back Rail” Section.

  5. Use corner template for top front rail.

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